Anastasia Vasilieva is a sustainable fashion researcher and founder of Treehouse, a certified organic kidswear brand. Her work on non-toxic clothing has been featured in podcasts, press, and guest lectures at FIT and Georgetown.
22 May 2025
22 May 2025
CONTENTS
The ā100% Cottonā Myth
When I first became a mom, I made a promise to myself: Iād only buy clothes labeled 100% cotton for my kids. It felt safe. Natural. The obvious choice.
And honestly? I was excited about it. I thought I was doing everything right.
But hereās the catch nobody tells you: that little tag that says 100% Cotton doesnāt mean what you think it does. The reality is, the journey from a cotton seed in the ground to the t-shirt on your childās back is very different depending on whether itās conventional or organic cotton. And those differences? They matter a lot.
What Is Organic Cotton?
Organic cotton comes from the same plant as regular cotton. But the real difference is in how itās grown and processed. And thatās where the science comes in. Organic cotton means
No genetically modified (GMO) seeds.
No synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.
No toxic finishing chemicals.
Organic farmers use crop rotation, compost, and beneficial insects to protect their plants. Itās farming that works with nature, not against it.
The result: healthier soil, healthier crops, and a final fabric thatās softer, safer, and gentler on your childās skin.
But is There an Actual Difference in the Fabric?
At the surface, cotton looks like cotton. The naked eye likely canāt spot the difference. But hereās the truth:
Regular cotton is one of the most chemically intensive crops in the world, almost always genetically modified, and heavily treated from seed to finished garment.
Organic cotton skips the GMOs, the pesticides, the toxic finishes, and instead relies on natural methods that protect people, soil, and water.
Same plant. Two completely different outcomes.
The Hidden Problems with Conventional Cotton
When I first started digging into this, I was floored. I thought ācotton = safe.ā What I didnāt know was this:
Genetically Modified Seeds
Over 90% of the worldās cotton is genetically modified. Farmers buy seeds designed to survive heavy chemical sprays, locking them into buying not just the seeds but also the pesticides that go with them.
Intensive Chemical Use
Conventional cotton eats up 10ā16% of the worldās pesticides while taking up only 2.5% of farmland (source: The Guardian). Those chemicals donāt just vanish; they end up in the soil, in rivers, and sometimes in the fabric itself.
Chemical Finishing Youāll Never See on the Label
And once itās spun, woven, and sewn, cotton gets a chemical makeover:
ā ļø Formaldehyde ā for wrinkle resistance and shrinkage control. ā ļø Azo and disperse dyes ā some are banned in the EU for releasing carcinogenic amines. ā ļø Softening agents ā often ammonium compounds that can irritate skin. ā ļø Optical brighteners ā the āillusion of whiteness.ā ā ļø Finishing resins and stain repellents ā sometimes PFAS, the āforever chemicals.ā
But the tag? It just says 100% Cotton.
In the U.S., thereās no requirement to disclose any of these chemical treatments on the label.
And hereās what drives me nuts: so many small brands on Instagram call themselves āsafeā or ānaturalā while knowingly using these textiles. Why? In short, because itās cheap to make this stuff and itās easy to market it as green.
Environmental Impacts of Non-Organic Cotton
Beyond your childās skin, conventional cotton leaves a massive footprint.
Water Consumption: A single conventional cotton t-shirt can require 2,700 liters of water, enough for one person to drink for 2ā3 years (source: The Guardian).
Pollution: Fertilizers and pesticides wash into rivers, poison ecosystems, and degrade the soil until it canāt grow crops without even more chemicals.
Thatās the legacy of ā100% cottonā when it isnāt organic.
The Organic Cotton Solution
Organic cotton flips this story on its head.
Natural farming: Non-GMO seeds, no synthetic pesticides, and soil kept fertile through compost and crop rotation.
Water conservation: Up to 80% of organic cotton is rain-fed. Studies show it uses 91% less irrigated water than conventional (source: Textile Exchange).
Iāll never forget the first time I ran my hands over an organic cotton sample. It wasnāt just soft, it feltĀ different. Real.
Hereās why:
Longer, stronger fibers. Organic cotton is often hand-picked, which keeps the fibers intact. Longer fibers mean fabrics that are both softer and more durable. Conventional machine-harvesting breaks fibers, leaving weaker, rougher fabric.
Naturally hypoallergenic. With no chemical residues, organic cotton is a safe bet for all children, especially those with delicate or sensitive skin.
Our commitment to you extends beyond just the our clothing - we prioritize the well-being of your children, the environment, and the workers who craft our pieces.